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Phuket the King’s Cup Regatta and homeward bound
December 3 – 16, 2011
Once more we found ourselves zooming across the water in a high speed ferry, this time headed for the infamous island of Phuket. We’d timed our visit to coincide with the running of the King’s Cup Regatta with idea in mind of socialising with a number of cruisers we’d met on the Indo Rally that would be in town at this time. That all changed when we received an offer to crew on Steve and Trish Brown’s beautiful Oyster 56, Curious, in the regatta itself. We’d be sailing with great people we knew from the rally, Jim and Barb Wallace off Contrails, Alan and Noi Hogg off Rogue, Brian Calvert off Further and a friend of his Chris Cowman and of course our crewmate from Nae Hassle Marc (Meerkat) Beerts. We were sailors again instead of tourists.
By the time we checked into our budget accommodation in Patong Beach it was already dark so we headed out and had a great feed garnered from a range of the food venders located just at the end of the street and then turned in for an early night to be up bright and sharp next day.
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| Steve & Trish Brown's Curious |
We grabbed a taxi over to Chalong Bay to meet everyone for a practice sail on Curious around to Kata Beach where the regatta is based. Sally had been invited to come along for the ride around the island so away we went. We set off finding our way in our various allotted positions and learning the boat. For many of us this was the first time we’d stepped foot aboard Curious so the learning curve was a little steep as we worked together to find the best and quickest ways to achieve things.
Rob was assigned a dual role of bowman assisting with the set of the big cruising chute Curious flies rather than a spinnaker and of hauling the slack sheet ropes in during tacks and getting them onto the electric winches. Karen got the job of sewer rat, being below in the forward cabin feeding the chute up on deck when needed and gathering it back in when it came down. Unfortunately on the trip around Trish had a recurrence of a stomach complaint that had laid her low the previous week so by the time we reached Kata Beach the decision had been made that Trish would sit out the first few days of the regatta to get over things. Karen was reassigned to the critical role of controlling the mainsail which indicated how highly Steve regarded her sail trim abilities. Sally suddenly found herself no longer a one day passenger but now part of the crew taking over Karen’s role with the cruising chute.
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| Post practice team bonding Phuket style |
The next day we tried to get a morning’s practice in before heading for registration to be followed by a big welcome party at the Kata Beach Resort but an almost complete lack of wind limited us to just going through basic procedures and refining our individual roles. We did run through the process of raising and lowering the cruising chute but couldn’t even find enough puff to go anywhere near getting it to set so we just motored back into the anchorage, tidied everything up on the boat ready for the first race the next day and headed in to get our registration process finalised and then enjoy the party. Brian decided that he really was a motor boat guy after all and elected to drop out from the crew but Steve was comfortable that we really would be able to cover all the roles between the crew on board anyway so there was no problem.
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| Even the resort pool got the King's Cup treatment |
WOH! Do these guys know how to throw a party. The King’s Cup Regatta was established in 1987 to celebrate the 60th birthday of His Highness the King of Thailand and in the 25 years since the organisers have obviously been refining their event management skills in the hospitality area. Over a thousand sailors can attest to the good time had by all with excellent live music, a massive array of very good food from suckling pig to Thai salads and just about everything in between and FREE DRINKS thanks to excellent beer and wine sponsors. It was a great welcome to the regatta and the Curious crew certainly had a great time, ever mindful that we were racing in the morning of course.
The entire fleet took part in a cermonial sail past to honour the King on the way to the startline area next morning as a Thai Navy aircraft flew overhead scattering rose petals over the boats. Very cool.
So to racing. A few nervous souls on board but with Jim calling the shots as tactician Curious had a good start hitting the line just seconds after the gun. We stayed in touch with the fancied boats on the first leg of the 23 nautical mile course but with the light winds not suiting the 30 ton Curious we were helpless to do much other than watch them progressively disappear off into the distance. Oh well we had a nice days sailing and all learned our jobs a bit more.
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| Karen hard at work in light conditions |
Back on shore we headed to a different resort for the presentation of trophies and guess what, party time again. This resort seemed determined to outdo the previous nights efforts and once more we were rocking the night away with more food than we could eat and more bubbly than we could possibly drink, although we did try.
Race two and another solid start for Curious but what was a promising wind faded away to leave us all but becalmed by early afternoon. Skipper Steve then had a conversation with the committee boat that provided one of the quotes of the regatta. After being told that the race was not being shortened and we had a bit over three hours left to reach the line to be classified as a finisher Steve replied “Well we’ll just have a bite of lunch here and then we’ll probably start the motor and go home. I guess that means we’re withdrawing.”
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| Sorry no photos of the windy days - we were too busy |
Starting to suffer from late nights-early mornings sleep deprivation and not being in a party mood we decided to give that evening’s function a miss and get some extra sack time which proved invaluable. Some of the crew did go along however and said it was yet another great event.
Wednesday – race three and at last there’s wind. 20 plus knots of glorious wind in fact and Curious was loving it as were we. Even better was that Trish had got over the worst of her stomach bug and was back on board with us.
Now we were actually up with the leaders and racing them. Despite being in the cruising division some of these boats had been all but stripped below decks and were way lighter than our 30 tons. Heck we even had a washing machine on board which proved invaluable in making sure we were spick and span in our crew shirts every morning but certainly add to our speed. However when the wind blew we came into our own. Although this was a shorter race around the buoys we had a ball and ended up in a very tight battle with a light weight Bavaria, Linda, that saw us going tack for tack around the course with the advantage swinging back and forth. We knew a fast Hanse, Odin, was out ahead of us but our focus was on this fight and in the end we lead Linda over the line by just 16 seconds.
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| Steve collects our second place trophy |
A check of the results page on the internet later in the afternoon confirmed we had scored second on handicap by 4 minutes 22 seconds. Tonight’s was a party we were certainly not going to miss. We started long before Steve went on stage to collect the trophy and the whole Curious crew celebrated long and hard after taking comfort in the knowledge that Thursday was a lay day and we could all sleep in. Which is exactly what we did.
Friday’s race four was another short race around the buoys but unfortunately the winds were again light and not to Curious’s liking. So light in fact that at times we found ourselves drifting backwards in the current.
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| Where's the bloody wind? |
After fighting the conditions all day we rounded the final mark for the last leg to the finish line only to have the wind completely desert us again. With the finish line coordinates entered in our chart plotter the GPS showed the line to be just .8 of a nautical mile away but at current speed our ETA was just over 17 days away. BUGGER! Fortunately this time the race committee awarded finishing positions based on where everyone was located on the course at the time and sent us home but sixth was a good as we could manage in the conditions. Still it was another great party that night at yet another resort with much more merriment.
Saturday was the final race of the Regatta and we were all feeling a bit subdued as we headed out towards the start line area in very light winds. We were expecting the race committee to nominate one of the short courses so everyone could get done and back in for the big grand finale night but were surprised we were to be racing over one of the longer, round the islands routes. The wind began to increase ever so slightly as we zigged and zagged in our prestart manoeuvres and by the time we again hit the line right on the gun we had enough for Curious to start getting motivated. The wind continued to strengthen and even before we reached the second mark we knew we were again in a good fight for second spot with the same boat, Linda.
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| Steve with his harem - 5 of the 11 on board were girls |
We actually lead them around the second mark and as we beat to windward tacking towards the bottom mark were edging a little further ahead each time we crossed. Preparing for the last tack to make the mark and head for home and just as we started to feel very good about our place in the world the gods of yacht racing gave us a wake up call. On the tack the slack in the sheet rope flapped wildly as the genoa came around the inner forestay and managed to wrap around the chartplotter monitor in the cockpit. With thousands of dollars worth of electronic wizardry at immanent risk of being whipped overboard by the flapping sail we spent all of about 45 seconds untangling things and getting back up to speed. Unfortunately that was all our rivals on Linda needed to seize the upper hand and get in front. Then on the long downwind leg we found the wind almost dead behind us which suited their spinnaker a little more than our cruising chute and we found ourselves slipping back ever so slightly.
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| The Curious crew knew how to party |
A small windshift towards the end of the leg brought our chute fully into play and gave us hope but when we rounded the mark set just off an island that had obstructed the view of Linda we realised how much of a lead they’d gained. However the wind was again around twenty knots and on the reach Curious was charging at near 10 knots through the water. Ahead we saw the Bavaria overpower and lose some ground, then another little mistake cost them some more time. Meanwhile Steve and Karen were working together with helm and mainsail trim while Alan and Chris were constantly tweaking headsail trim to coax every ounce out of the boat as we watched the gap continue to close. We knew two things. First up, they would have a slight speed advantage on the short, upwind run to the line after the final mark but more importantly, we didn't actually have to pass them because on handicap they needed to cross the line a about six and half minutes ahead to beat us. We just needed to get close enough.
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| Two second places was a great result given the conditions |
We continued to close on them and rounded the final mark hot on their heels but still far enough behind to know it was going to be a very close run thing. Surprisingly they failed to move further ahead on the run to the line and with stop watch ticking we measured the margin over the finish and headed to shore quietly confident Curious had earned another second place. Sure enough when the results were posted, after almost four and half hours of sailing we’d placed second on handicap three minutes thirty six seconds ahead of Linda and it was party time again for one last fling.
Despite the big night most of the crew came together again for a farewell breakfast next morning as we were all heading off to different destinations. We certainly wanted to make sure we got to thank Steve and Trish one more time for letting us be part of such a great week’s sailing with them aboard their beautiful home.
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| Says it all really |
Saying goodbye to all and going our separate ways after breakfast really did bring home to us that our South East Asian adventure was all but over. We had one last day in Phuket picking up some last minute Christmas presents for the family and then the following morning we headed for the airport with Marc to fly back to Singapore where we spent two final days together before again all heading to the airport but this time we were flying south to Australia and Marc north to the UK.
We’d spent an incredible six months together and were extremely thankful that our personalities had meshed so well to make our rough times bearable and our good times great. We had been the three inhabitants of meerkat manor in the bow of SV Nae Hassle laughing, joking and, on many occasions, letting off steam together. We certainly could not of wished for a better crewmate and sitting at Singapore airport, waiting for our flight to be called all talk was of when and how we could sail together again. That it will happen is almost a certainty.
When finally we did have to break up the party and board our flight home closing the final chapter of our first but not final major sailing adventure there was no goodbye, just a see you later.
To stay right up to date with what we’re up to these days and see lots more photos check out and 'like' our Dreamtime Sail Facebook page at Dreamtime Sail on Facebook
If you have only recently discovered our blog and would like to read how it all started, or work through our previous adventures, click the link to go back to our first blog entry. Stuff it. Let's just go sailing anyway. We hope you enjoy reading the previous posts to catch up on our story.
Monday, February 27, 2017
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Some Naked Sailing Just the two of us for a while turning white bits brown
August 7-15 2012
After a very busy day in port we left Palma on Tuesday morning having our very first ever sail totally on our own. Rob handled the lines and Karen helmed the boat off the dock, the harbour and out into the bay. With a 12 to 15 knot easterly blowing we’d decided to head back to the shelter of Santa Ponsa for our first stop.
The wind was blowing from right behind us so we tacked out off the coast then went wing on wing with the mainsail out the starboard side, the genoa out the port and ran dead down wind. Unfortunately we don’t have a spinnaker pole on Alcheringa yet but even without poling out the headsail it held beautifully in the moderate breeze all the way across the bay to Punta de Cala Figuera, the cape on the south west corner of Mallorca. It was another clear, sunny day and a good opportunity to work on tanning our white bits although Karen insisted a keen lookout was maintained so she could cover up whenever a boat closed within half a mile.
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| Sailing downwind wing on wing |
We rounded the lighthouse on the cape and then had a nice reach along the west coast back up to Santa Ponsa. We had no dramas this time and were able to anchor in almost the exact spot we’d been only a few days before. It was as nice a day’s sailing as we could ever ask for and a real confidence builder handling the boat two up.
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| An elegant lady we passed entering Santa Ponsa - Mallorca |
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| Just outside Santa Ponsa |
We went ashore for the afternoon and had a wander around a few more of the streets and enjoyed a nice cheap early dinner ashore. Karen was also a pretty happy girl having found a beauticians and was able to get an appointment for the important job of getting her legs waxed first up the following morning. This would still give us plenty of time to get further up the coast to our next stop.
We had a very peaceful night until the nightclubs emptied out about 6.00 and the streets became alive with drunk Irish and Brit tourists. Fortunately no wars broke out but if we hear one more loud, drunken rendition of ‘We are the Champions’ we may not be responsible for our actions.
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| It's a bit freaky looking across Santa Ponsa and seeing the bay full of VW Beetles |
After breakfast Karen duly got de-furred and then we headed out to sail up the west coast to San Telmo. Unlike the day before, this time the wind was very unco-operative. It was right on the nose as we left the anchorage then as we turned so did it. We motored across the large bay with the thought that we’d be able to sail once we rounded the point. The bloody wind turned as we turned again. Realising it was out to get us we gave up on the idea of sailing and motored our way the short distance up to San Telmo.
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| Rob with the San Telmo anchorage in the background |
Like Formentera, San Telmo has restricted anchoring in areas of sea grass and a number of moorings which have to be pre-booked. Not wanting a repeat of our run in with the anchor nazi, this time we’d actually gone on line and had booked one of the moorings. When we arrived we wondered how we’d find mooring 8B amongst the bay full of floating plastic balls and started idling around trying to spot the numbers. Then we spied a sight to instil fear and dread into our very beings. Speeding from the shore towards us was exactly the same type of RIB (Rigid Inflatable boat) as driven by our jackbooted nemesis on Formentera. Not again.
But this time the government official had obviously been trained in a different place. He really could not have been more helpful. He guided us over to our mooring and waited to see if we needed help to get organised. Picking up moorings is not exactly new to Karen as it’s a skill she learned on her parents’ game fishing charter boat long before high school and as Rob slowly nudged the bow onto the upwind side of the floating buoy she very quickly pulled it on board with the boat hook. Our attendant made us feel very good about ourselves as he even complimented us on the boat handling and mooring pickup.
Later when Rob went for a snorkel to make sure we were happy with the strength of the mooring we found out why. The attendant obviously witnesses many failed attempts. The sea bed was littered with boat hooks people had obviously dropped trying to pick up the mooring buoy. Pity they were fourteen metres down and way too deep for Rob without scuba otherwise we’d be boasting a very nice collection now. We then watched as the man we soon dubbed the Anchor Angel in contrast to the Anchor Nazi, went up to arriving boats that didn’t have moorings booked, explained the regulations to them and then guided them to where they could anchor legally and safely away from the sea grass area. Now that was more like it.
San Telmo, or Sant Elmo, depending on which book or sign you read, is a very beautiful spot with more of the crystal clear water we’ve got used to. We went for a great snorkel one and a half kilometres all the way around a small island in the middle of the bay and then had a nice dinner and sun downer drinks for two on board.
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| The island we snorkelled around at San Telmo |
It was the first time we’d had Alcheringa on a mooring and considering small swell running and slight breeze it actually provided us with a very comfortable night. Each morning since Marc had returned to the UK we had emailed him the Navionics track of where we’d sailed the previous day so he could see where we were and got all the track info such as distance travelled, average speed, highest speed etc.. After our first day on the mooring Karen emailed him the track. It showed a series of lines that all merged together to form a large dot centred on the mooring. Incredibly we’d actually got up to 2.5knots across the ground at one stage as we swung with the wind and current. Marc got a giggle out of it anyway.
We had a quiet second morning on the mooring and Rob and finally got some blogging done. Mid afternoon we headed ashore for a look around the town but ran out of fuel in the outboard about two thirds of the way in. Bugger! Rob had been sure there was plenty left in the tank. Yeah right!
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| Someone got creative at San Telmo beach |
So after paddling the rest of the way in we found the town extremely nice. There was only one small resort on the southern end of the beach and the main street was all paved and lined with nice cafes, shops, a great bakery and some even better gelato stores. It was also a vehicle restricted area, very few cars making it very pedestrian friendly.
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| San Telmo is a lovely little town |
We came across a beautiful mosaic commemorating King Jaimie 1st of Aragon arriving with his fleet here in the 1200’s on his way to drive the Moors out of Mallorca. Hang on isn’t this a groundhog day moment. Hadn’t we seen a monument commemorating the same thing at Santa Ponsa? A proud local café owner explained that the King may have landed his troops at Santa Ponsa but San Telmo was definitely his first landfall on Mallorca. He anchored here for a few days and then moved down the coast to get serious. Makes sense. This was a great spot for some R&R before waging war after all.
We wandered around trying to buy some petrol but unfortunately the fuel station was in the main town a few kilometres inland so we had to paddle back out to the boat moored about 300 metres offshore against the wind. Bugger! Bugger! With much effort we made about two thirds of the distance before our Anchor Angel arrived with his rib and towed us the rest of way. He’d left us to it until then because he thought we had everything under control but as the wind got stronger he saw we were actually being blown backwards towards the beach again.
You can only stay on the moorings for two nights and we had planned to sail on further than San Telmo but next morning there was no wind so we decided to just move the boat in close to the beach and anchor in a patch of sand near the swim line. There’s very little anchorage space and it’s usually filled quickly with the influx of smaller pleasure boats each morning so we moved early before day trippers arrived and had the pick of the place.
It was so nice here in fact that we ended up staying another couple of very enjoyable days in San Telmo doing not a lot other than swimming, snorkelling and soaking up the Mediterranean sun with a book..
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| That's what you call a house with a view - Mallorca West Coast |
On Sunday morning we set off to sail back to Cala Portals, the nice little bay we stayed in when we first left Palma. As the wind was predicted to swing to the north, it would be a well protected spot to sit out a few more days waiting for Marc to return. There was no wind to begin with but then it picked up and we had a great day light airs sailing around the coast. It’s great when there’s no rush and we can just make the most of what breeze there is. We arrived after many of the day boats had departed and dropped anchor right in close to one of the beaches. Yes OK. It was the nude beach packed with naked Spaniards of all ages, shapes and sizes but we chose it because it was the most protected from the wind and swell. Really!
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| Enjoying a skinny dip at Cala Portals. Karen had given up on the half nautical mile clearance while naked by this stage. When in Spain do as the Spanish do. |
We never troubled the anchor winch again for four glorious days of skinny dipping, blogging, reading, working on our all over tans and watching the daily parade of visitors arrive by boat and down the cliff paths to the beaches. Each evening after the bay emptied of vessels and people we enjoyed the solitude and just being us on Alcheringa with nice food and local wines. Life afloat is good.
For more about our travels check out and 'like' our Dreamtimesail facebook page at
http://www.facebook.com/DreamtimeSail?ref=hl
For more about our travels check out and 'like' our Dreamtimesail facebook page at
http://www.facebook.com/DreamtimeSail?ref=hl
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| Each night when the sun went down we had Cala Portals to ourselves. Oh the serenity!!!!! |
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